One of Italy's smallest regions, Umbria lies in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour, Tuscany. This is a quiet corner and an incredibly soulful and introspective world apart. The many Umbrian hills and mountains cast long dark shadows over river valleys which are already darkened by lush chestnut groves and elm forests. This landlocked region's overwhelmingly medieval character harkens one back to the mysticism and mysteries of the Dark Ages. In so many ways, Umbria has lain in the shadows for centuries. It was originally inhabited by a mysterious and peaceful race called the Umbrii. They assimilated with the Etruscans and later become one of the few tribes clever enough to embrace Roman rule, thus avoiding falling hatchets in the battle-field. The gentle temperament of the Umbrii helped them to outlive their aggressors and the region went on to produce a glut of religious celebrities. St Clare and St Benedict, the founder of monasticism, St Rita, patron of impossibilities, and St Valentine, icon of lovers, left their mark on Italy’s “green heart”. Most important of all, wrapped in sackcloth-like clothing, St Francis of Assisi (1182-1226) preached love of nature, chastity and spiritual enrichment by virtue of poverty from these hills while nearby Tuscans were busy clobbering each other or scheming to get rich from pilgrims. The importance of il Poverello (the “little poor one”) in the Catholic Church is unparalleled and his shrine in Assisi is the country’s second most important holy site after the Vatican.
Perhaps self-imposed modesty is an inbred trait here. That would explain the relative obscurity of this beautiful region, a land whose rolling hills are dotted with castles, fortresses and watchtowers, whose well-preserved hill towns produce world-renowned handmade ceramics, whose many monasteries were founded by a host of local saints, whose valleys are laced with countless gleaming rivers and host Italy's largest lake. In Umbria, halfway up the slopes of Monte Fumaiolo, a trickle seeps out of the ground and wanders southward, gaining breadth and notoriety to become Rome's mighty Tiber. Umbria's popular visitor destinations include world-famous Assisi and Spoleto in addition to Perugia, Orvieto, and Castiglione.